Coulthard Collection Looks to New Zealand’s History

Reviewed by Megan Johnson

Designer Paula Coulthard won a place in the Westfield Style Pasifika sponsored show showing with two other new designers on the catwalk at Air New Zealand Fashion Week getting their big break in showing their winter 05 collections to top international and local media and buyers.

Coulthard’s show opened with a Maori challenge and got the audience sitting upright. It took us through New Zealand’s history from the Maori influence of tattooed moko patterns to sailor suits with bell-bottomed legs and embroidered ships on women’s tops. Early European settlers arriving by ship inspired Coultahrd’s opening show-stopping piece; a blonde sailor-hat wearing model in a striped sailor top and wooden boat skirt over white tulle to symbolise the ocean. Not for the seasick or landlubbers in the fashion world but something to rock the boat.

Paula Coulthard is the talent behind the high-end fashion label Coulthard. She has a background in art, design and costume and is inspired by New Zealand's industrial, cultural and art history. Her garments surprise in their detail - from the cameo with a moko to the tiny fantail embroidered on a brilliantly tailored jacket.

Blue and white blankets embroidered with whales and ships stood out as wearable street-wear in the show, and red star emblazoned shirts adapting the New Zealand flag to great effect. Appropriating culture from all different sides of the camp has created a user-friendly blend that pleases most and offends few, with no outright use of Maori symbols but more post-European settlement iconography. I’ll be looking out for Coulthard’s future directions with interest to see where she takes it from here.