Enigmatic Zambesi

Zambesi "The Enigma"
Winter 2010 at Air New Zealand Fashion Week
22 September 2009

What exactly can you say about a label as unique as Zambesi? I have said it before– you can’t compare them to anyone except themselves. And even then, just when you think you know what to expect, they throw you a curve ball.

They have always had an unexpected take on what it is to be a woman, to be feminine, and past collections have played up the dark twisty floaty element of this with silks and sequins and glorious patterns. It has always been an element I have loved - the textured sequins and fabrics- and so I did have a quiet moment of panic when I realised there was not a single element of this in the entire collection. Zambesi have moved on. As their ‘look’ has been copied by so many, they have always been one step ahead.

The dresses in this collection are more structured, but somehow loose; again, tailoring at its absolute best. I really couldn’t pick a favourite out of them, but if I must I would choose the loose sweater dress with the asymetric hemline. There were several with structured horizontal pleats which also might have to come home with me.

For women, the slim pant was a key piece with dresses over the top, and plaid was strong – but again, plaid done Zambesi’s own way – large and muted all at once.



Jackets – again, are moving toward the much more structured, and waistcoats, as in the summer collection, are also very strong, done in beautiful wools. One of the waistcoats was back-less – and perfect. I also loved the looser bomber jackets.



The entire collection's colours were all muted – Zambesi black, soft dove greys, burgundy, blue greens, and brown.



To flip this all on its head, there were large knitted jumpers that looked deconstructed and just like grandma used to make, overly-large and comfortable, in chunky stripes. This balanced the lattice-work theme in dresses and tops in grey and black. This theme continued with leggings with cutouts through the back; another key look.



The real revelation for me was the strong men's collection. This just gets better and better – and in keeping with a more tailored theme – the suits were beautiful.



The perfect cashmere coat was a must-have, as was the more deconstructed duffle coat. The slim-line pants continued through the whole collection – perfect for both men and women.

Zambesi. Perfect as always.

Photographers on the stage at Auckland's Skycity Theatre for the fashion week show.

Below, Zambesi's designers take to the stage to receive applause for their Winter 2010 collection, 'The Enigma'.

Anya Brighouse
Photos Kevin Robinson