Talkin' about the New Generation

ghd New Generation Group Show
Air New Zealand Fashion Week 2009
Thursday 24 September

This was definitely not a show for the faint hearted! From the costume-like Serena Fagence (with the fabulous Bionic Pixie performing live on the runway), to Michael Pattison's diffusion line ‘Trix and Dandy’ (complete with small movie), to the highlight for me of Tara Cunniffe with her glorious tailored constructions in peach and blue.

Designers taking part in ghd New Generation include  ISBIM which is designed by Joshua Jang and stands for I Still Believe In Miracles; Tara Cunniffe's signature intricate and sculptural pieces; Chapel, designed and produced in New Zealand by Sophie Johnston and Janelle Simonsen, Trix & Dandy, Michael Pattison’s diffusion line of sexy streetwear; EmmaFord, a stylish NZ swimsuit label by Auckland based couple Mark Burton and Emma Stuart; Serena Fagence, an eclectic and innovative young Auckland designer, Keri Wanoa, who is also part of the Miromoda Show and Australian designer House of EZIS designed by Andrzej Pytel.

These eight designers are sponsored by various media partnering up one-on-one with each designer, including Remix Magazine (working with two designers), Fashion NZ website, Front Row Diary website, Pilot Magazine, Citymix Magazine, Black Magazine and 1am Magazine.

ISBIM (I still believe in miracles) were first out with metallics layered skin tight. The collection came alive when the patterned fabrics came out!

Emmaford, who previously was just concentrated on swimwear, has expanded her collection this year with her obvious talent in textile design. Her fabric designs are bold and in your face – and certainly for the girl who is used to being looked at! The ‘spotlight’ pattern was my fave; her rock chic glam at its best.



 

The lights went down and the catwalk became a nightclub for Serena Fagence as artist Bionic Pixie (intro image, above left) took the stage with a handheld mic and her sultry looks dressed in an amazing silver outfit. After graduating her Bachelor of Art and Design majoring in Fashion Design at AUT University in 2007, Serena Fangence has designed and produced three collections; Spring 2008, Summer 2009 and a Summer 2009 exhibition and stocks Qui Boutique in St Kevins Arcade and she designs memorable stage outfits for various New Zealand bands. The young, charming and energetic Fagence brought her Winter 2010 collection of both menswear and womenswear to the ghd group show with knit striped sportswear, satin jackets, and fun monochromatic pieces with triangle spikes that to us recalled cartoon dinosaurs.

Trix and Dandy was all about sexy glamour both for men and women. Loved the patterned halter neck dress – sassy! My favourite outfit was the snake skin print bomber jacket over a leopard print dress (I am very partial to leopard print). It was a happy and fun show that didn’t take itself too seriously (which some did) – especially with Michael coming out at the end strutting with a fake tommy gun. All in good fun.

Chapel had a simple collection with belted dresses, striped tights and feathers. There were striped jerseys both long and short and a lovely silk in black, white and grey that I really liked. Also used green and burgundy to great effect. It has a casual feel to it that was refreshing after all the suiting and plaid we have seen this week.

Whiri is a label from ‘up north’ and was also a refreshing take on fashion that was not ‘Auckland’ in its focus. Loved the knotted leather sleeve detail on the first top out. And the black/white patterned bodysuit with a black shift over the top. Again there was an interesting knitted sleeve detail and some great printed tights and interesting button detailing. Interesting first year (also showed at Miromoda earlier in the week) for the label – and they were a definite crowd favourite.

House of EZIS has an almost architectural edge to clothing, and though some of the pieces are beautiful, some almost overwhelm the wearer. Started with an amazing draped cape with a lacy front top – which I really liked. I get oversized clothing, but it still needs to hint at the shape underneath – and unfortunately most of the pieces didn’t. That said I liked the organza used in the collection – especially the white belted dress.

Tara Cunniffe was, for me anyway, the standout of the show with structured pleating detail, and inverse detail on her garments. It really was the pick of the bunch for tailoring at its best (possibly for the whole week). It was amazingly assured. Dresses and jackets that were beautiful from the front and even better from the back – and the colours were just glorious with coral, peach, blue, and cream. Loved the white pleated pants – a whole new take on the harem pant. Loved it all.

Anya Brighouse
Photos Megan Robinson