Fashion Rookies hit St Paul's

AUT ROOKIE 09 Graduate Fashion Show
St Paul's Symonds Street
15 October 2009

In the gracious surroundings of St Paul's on Symonds Street last night we got to see 24 mini collections showcasing the best from AUT graduates. Who will be the next big thing in New Zealand fashion?
 
It was a lot of clothing to get through with each designer showing between three and five outfits, in two separate shows in order to accomodate all the students, friends and family, and then media and industry at a later show.

For seven years, previously at New Zealand Fashion Week on-site and for the past two years as a separate event in October at St Paul's, the graduate show known as 'Rookie' has become a launching pad for new talent. Sherie Mujs (of label sherieyvonne), Alex Kim (of Jaeha), Jann Wong, Serena Fagence and Nadeesha Godamunne all started out as Rookies. 

Who will be the next to make it big? We sat down to watch the show... 

Adrianne Whitewood started things off with a collection of blues (no black here) with gently draped hand printed velvet. Loved the copper bracelets. Wonderful.

Blaire Archibald followed with the first of the menswear. Checks and cardis, with a lovely collar detail on the shirt (very small collar). Had a simple but effective sleeveless coat.

Celia Phillips' collection 'Yearning for Zion' showed pastel prairie dresses inspired by an American cult - in line with Lonely Hearts’ inspiration for winter 2010 also of a cult. Must be a new religion. Used layering to great effect – had a slight 80’s feel to it. She is a clever girl – and judging by the applause – a crowd favourite. (Intro image above.)

Alana Bishop's collection was called ‘stretch me’ with all of the pieces lengthening the body – vertical stripes and long floor length jackets. Assured.



My favourite of the evening followed, Ana Vemic with her collection ‘Lost not Lonely’. ‘Dark with hybrid layers yet effortless and relaxed’. Here is a girl to watch with her very clever construction (as opposed to tailoring almost.) Voluminous, oversized garments in wools and felts that still managed to maintain the integrity of the wearer. They were still, at their core, feminine garments. Wearable and commercial with a dark twist.

Reiko Fukuda showed us tough/sexy with leather leg pieces mixed with silk and studding. Managed to be strangely feminine. The corsets underneath where beautifully made – great detail.



Glenn Yungnickel introduced the biggest splash of colour with his vermillion men’s collection. All the pieces where put together from dyed fabric – the detail and tailoring was impeccable – you can see why he is an honours student. Long line, slim fit jackets and fitted short trousers. Would be interested to see what would happen if he turned that sharp tailoring eye on women’s wear.

Smocking detail was the focus of Natalie Allingham’s collection. With an easy eye for drape and smocking (especially the smocking detail on the tights) – it was an eminently wearable effort.

Alysha Gover used colour (and print) and the three dimensional process of knit structures to fabulous effect. This is one clever lady – and one certainly to watch. Obviously an honours student!

Simone Hine made sure there was an ‘absence of black’ in her collection with vibrant prints in orange and blue. Loved the long knitted coat with the mesh back detail.

Michaela Inger used drape (though this seemed to be a re-occurring theme throughout the whole show) as her theme. She used knits and leathers – definitely accomplished. Megan Lowe used fitted layering with her collection ‘ambivalence’.

Sandra Tupu (mother of four!) explored the essence of Samoan Tatau – she is passionate about contemporary Pacifica – and it shows. Without using idiosyncratic imagery she has tried and succeeded. Cord, wool felt, and knitwear used to good effect in her menswear. Interesting draped detail on the back of her jackets and coats.

Haylee Barry came out with an electric 80’s inspired knitwear collection in orange, teal and red. Fun, happy, geometric shapes. Was definitely one of the standouts of the evening. Definitely marching to the beat of her own drum…

Cait Farrow was also doing things entirely her own way with her collection inspired by African tribal design and the Irish military (?!) She used layering and draping and twisted it with strong use of colour with greens, purple and reds. Jacenta Kwan pushed boundaries of the human form with “Body Sculpture”. Binna Lim used holes in her knitwear to change the dynamic, letting colour thru to simple effect. Black knitwear with yellow, orange and blue underneath – wearable and commercial.

Sara Wilson had a very assured collection of menswear with oversized cardigans, and leather knitwear, drill cotton trousers and grandpa shirts. Very well put together – when some of the collections were not as well constructed. Abby Davidson with “Keep your wits about you” – comes into her own with her patterned knits. Priyanka Pereira used earth tones with harem pants and waistcoats.

Olivia Benefield used the ultrasound photo of her unborn son on her knitwear, and gorgeous though the print is – it is not the best part of her collection. She is a confident, talented young woman – with a great eye. The layered collection of knits, and especially the pants – were brilliant.

Meghann Hemmings used glorious ostrich skins ‘tamed into functioning garments’ with a raw sexy edge. The skins were draped over jackets and stitched to leggings – they can’t have been the easiest of medium to work with – but they managed to have a thrown together quality to them.

Victoria Green had the best menswear of the evening with draped dyed canvas – loose knitwear and tights under shorts – and layered, dyed t-shirts with woollen ‘string vests’ over the top. Loved the garments and the styling – could just about take out the best collection of the evening.

Lan Ching Fu was the perfect note to finish on. Entirely unexpected and interesting – “Bright Eyes” is a collection inspired by a poem ‘midnight maiden’. At first glance the collection is about the beautiful chain jewellery that embellishes the all black clothes – truly stunning, but if you look closely you will see the clothes themselves are beautifully constructed – the long diaphanous skirt was glorious. Definitely a gem of the evening…

Words Anya Brighouse 15 October 2009
Photos Kevin Robinson